Jan
6
Building Codes and Remodeling
Posted In: Home Improvement
Building codes are regulations that control almost every aspect of home design and construction. Every new home, remodeling project, or room addition must be designed and built in accordance with the codes that regulate the structural design, energy efficiency, construction quality, and overall safety of structures occupied by the public.
Codes dictate the size and configuration of stairs; the number and type of windows and glass; the amount of energy the house consumes; methods and materials of construction; the location of smoke detectors; and hundreds of other items.
A new homeowner may only be minimally aware of the impact of building codes on his home, since most code issues are addressed before he occupies it. But homeowners undertaking a remodeling or room addition are likely to become very familiar with how building codes affect the design, construction, and cost of their project.
That’s because building codes often require work to be done to parts of the house that seem otherwise sound – it can be an unpleasant surprise to find that you’ve got to tear out the ceiling of a room in which you’d planned no significant work.
Below are a few of the larger code-related issues often encountered in home remodeling, and some suggestions on how you can plan for them.
More Power!
It should be assumed that any home more than thirty years old will require an update of the electrical system. Usually the culprit is too little power to serve the needs of modern life; current electrical codes require about three times the number of power outlets than a few decades ago.
These additional outlets will necessitate a larger electrical panel, which may in turn require a larger electrical service (more power!).
Unfortunately this is a hard problem to avoid. If you’re planning to add on or remodel, be sure your contractor budgets for an electrical upgrade.
What’s Holding You Up?
The older a home is the less it’s likely to meet today’s codes for structural strength. If work is done in an area of original construction, the structure will probably need some reinforcing – even if the structure’s been standing solidly for years.
Any remodeling that exposes existing structure or changes the way loads are distributed on the floors and walls will require a review of the home’s structure. Additions also often cause structural changes as existing supports are altered or removed to make way for the new work.
But reworking the structural elements of a home often plants a bigger (and more expensive) obstacle in the way – the necessary relocation of existing electrical wiring and ductwork that may be routed through the framing. It’s part of what’s called the “ripple effect” – a small change in one area ripples throughout the house. Whenever possible, minimize the ripple effect by designing an addition that doesn’t disrupt the house’s structure and by remodeling existing rooms without moving walls.
Where there’s Smoke…
Smoke detectors are of two types, battery powered and “hard-wired”. Hard-wired detectors are powered from the homes’ electrical system, and are interconnected – when one goes off, they all go off. Residential codes require that all new homes have hard-wired detectors, and most jurisdictions require their installation throughout the home when any part of it is remodeled.
Carbon monoxide detectors are a new addition to many local codes. According to the Journal of the American Medical Association, carbon monoxide is the leading cause of accidental poisoning deaths in America. CO2 detectors are similar in appearance to the more familiar smoke detectors and cost about $40 retail.
Plan on being required to add both smoke and carbon monoxide detectors to any significant remodeling or addition project.
Watch Your Steps
Stairs are probably the single most dangerous part of any house. Accidental falls on stairs happen for many reasons (each year about 239,000 or 9% of all stair accidents happen to women in high heels and children). In the past several years, residential stair requirements have been gradually increasing to make stairs less steep and easier to negotiate.
The least restrictive stair geometry allows a maximum step height (“riser”) of 8 ¼” and a minimum step depth (“tread”) of 9”. Code writers are in the process of decreasing the riser height to 7” and increasing the tread depth to 11”, resulting in a much less steep stair and hopefully, improved stair safety.
But these safer stairs are also larger – be sure to know the stair codes in your area before you lay out the design of your project.
Good Help Isn’t Hard To Find
Experienced architects, remodeling contractors, plan examiners, and building inspectors can help you to anticipate many of the potential code issues hidden in older homes. A little time and money invested in a qualified review of your ideas can help you to avoid expensive surprises later on.
Richard L. Taylor, AIA is a published author and recognized expert in Residential Architecture. He is President of Richard Taylor Architects, a 5-person firm in Historic Dublin, Ohio that specializes in custom and luxury home design, and remodeling and room addition projects of all sizes. | Residential Architects | Luxury Home House Plans
Article Source: Building Codes and Remodeling
Jan
6
Choosing Outdoor Deck Materials
Posted In: Home Improvement
The materials and finishes that we use on the interior of our homes require cleaning and occasional maintenance; we dust, we vacuum, we mop-n-glo to keep them looking good and long lasting. Without too much effort we can stay ahead of the wear and tear from our kids and our pets.
Materials on the outside, however take a daily beating from the sun, wind, rain, temperature changes, and other environmental elements (in addition to kids and dogs). Those materials need a great deal more care and maintenance but that can be reduced somewhat by selecting the proper materials to suit your goals.
Outdoor decks are subject to a great deal of abuse – the deck surface is especially susceptible to sun and rain. Wood is the most popular surface for decks, but it’s also the quickest to wear out. Fortunately there are a variety of deck surface products available that allow you to choose between appearance, cost, and the effort needed to keep your deck looking great for many years.
Natural Wood Decking
Natural wood is the obvious first choice for decking. It’s sturdy, attractive, easy to work with, and it comes in a wide variety of types with different qualities and costs.
Pressure-treated wood decking is far and away the most popular decking surface in use today. Most PT lumber is made from Southern Yellow Pine, impregnated with ACQ, a chemical that increases the wood’s resistance to rot and insect damage. But treated lumber is often poorer quality material so the wood shrinks, cracks, and splits more easily.
A better choice for “real” wood decks is one of the many woods that have a natural resistance to rot and insect damage. These woods include Western Red Cedar, Redwood, and some species of tropical hardwoods. While these better quality decking materials last longer and look better they also cost more. One of the very best natural deck surfaces is a group of South American hardwoods called Ipe (“Ipe” is Portuguese for hardwood). These are extremely dense, tight-grained woods, dark in color and virtually free from knots. Ipe is very hard, heavy, and difficult to work with but is also very beautiful and is nearly indestructible. Expect to pay top dollar for Ipe materials and the labor to install it.
The use of any type of natural wood decking comes with some negative environmental impact. When pressure-treated decking is disposed of, the chemicals used to treat the wood may leach into groundwater; burning it puts these same chemicals into the air. And while the new ACQ treatment is less toxic than the previous CCA (which contains arsenic) the long-term effects of the chemical aren’t fully known.
Much of the tropical hardwood used for decking material is plantation-grown, but some isn’t and at the retail level it’s nearly impossible to tell the difference. Most folks don’t want their decks built at the expense of an acre of rainforest.
Wood Composite Decking
Wood Composite decking has become very popular recently due to its longevity and environmentally friendly characteristics. It’s a pretty good imitation of natural wood in workability and appearance.
Sold under names like Trex, Correctdeck, and Timbertech, composite decking boards are made from recycled plastic (usually grocery bags or milk jugs) and ground-up waste wood. It can be cut and attached like real wood and requires almost no maintenance. Composite decking mimics the look of natural wood but varies in appearance and performance depending upon the manufacturer and the ratio of plastic to wood in the mix, usually about 50-60% wood products.
Although composite decking can’t be stained or painted like natural wood, many manufacturers produce boards in several colors. Since the color is throughout the material, chips and scrapes don’t require restaining to maintain a consistent appearance. And because of the high wood content, the uncolored composite boards weather to a pleasing silver-gray.
As with any decking surface, the method of securing composite decking to the framing can improve or reduce the appearance of the deck. Poor installation can even affect the structural integrity of the boards. Ideally, all decking boards should be installed with concealed fasteners – more effort and expense, but the result is a better looking and longer lasting deck.
There are a few other choices in decking – Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic (FRP) for example, but they look much less like “traditional” decking than natural wood or wood composite. All-plastic and aluminum decking products also require the use of a large number of end caps, specialized fasteners, and other proprietary parts and pieces that can detract from the overall appearance of the deck.
Your choice of decking depends upon the desired appearance, budget, and your tolerance for the required maintenance of different materials. A good balance of those characteristics should result in a deck surface that the whole family will enjoy for many years – kids, dogs, and all.
Richard L. Taylor, AIA is a published author and recognized expert in Residential Architecture. He is President of Richard Taylor Architects, a 5-person firm in Historic Dublin, Ohio that specializes in custom and luxury home design, and remodeling and room addition projects of all sizes. | Residential Architects | Luxury Home House Plans
Article Source: Choosing Outdoor Deck Materials
Jan
6
It is time now to make sure that you contact a few basic guidelines for the proper maintenance and preservation. Maintenance of natural stone is not much harder than in any other material that is with us. The difference lies mainly in the cleaning agents. Stone - especially calcite based stones such as marble, travertine, limestone, etc. - are a sensitive chemical composition, the interaction in “foreign” (harmful) opportunities with the chemical solutions for cleaning, not specifically for the task.
Once you know what to use, all you have to do is the basic DOs’ n ‘Do not listed here:
GENERAL
Leaks can be very different in nature from another. Most of them will prove to be detrimental to stone if left unattended. Orange juice, lemonade, wine, vinegar, liqueurs, tomatoes, yogurt, salad dressing, perfume, After Shave, improper cleaning and so on, through a long list, most likely not damage “granite” and “green marble” surfaces, but ETCH polished marble, travertine, limestone, onyx and alabaster. Therefore,
Thursday pick any spill as quickly as possible to be preserved. Do not rub the accident, just dab it.
Do not use general cleaning product on your natural stone, or in the vicinity (eg: a liquid toilet cleaner, if the toilet is on a marble floor), unless the label indicates that it is based on the natural marble (cultured marble is man-made, and it is basically a plastic).
FLOORS
That means: A cleaning chore - any cleaning task - is rarely a matter of cleaning products only. Other factors are involved, such as a cleaning of the RAG, a sheet of paper, a wash pad, a squeegee, and so on. Without these additional resources, the cleaner is not much good! What’s more, sometimes the nature and quality of resources is as important as the quality of the cleaning product. If some sub-par means that the cleaning product is not at its best. This fact has never been as in the case of a shiny floor. I have often noted, households, what I call pathetic mops, often not so clean, either together with small groups, to prepare for the solution! A good quality and smooth MOP mopping bucket are the key for the best results at mopping your polished stoneware or porcelain floor.
In all my experience I have concluded that sponge mops are not the best types of MOP for a highly polished floor. My favorites are very good size, closed-loop cotton string mops. It is always best, at least a couple of MOP heads, so that if one is dirty, everything you have to do is throwing it in the washing machine and use one in the meantime. The MOP group is very important. Small little bucket of water (which, of course, is dirty, very short) and they have no means to wring the provisional MOP correct. Professional MOP-type bucket with a wringing, that good 4-GL solutions for cleaning are highly recommended. Excellent MOP handles and heads, as well as an excellent bucket with wringer on wheels (by “Rubbermaid”) are in the cleaning Isle of The Home Depot. They are relatively inexpensive, too. It is an investment worth if you have a lot of hard floors in your house!
Care:
Newly installed floors. The best thing to do to create a new polished stone floor is an offer by an individual adequately trained caretakers, or a professional stone refinisher. Detailing means deep cleaning of floor virtually square centimeter by square inch, the elimination of all possible grout residue or film and adhesive, with the potential to leave little damage by workers, or a few possible errors factory, and open the pores of the stone with a few special cleaning agents, so that the stone can “breathe” and dry.
Should you decide not to have your detailed floor, NON-MOP moist soil immediately after installation and grout? While you would not lead to a real damage, the fine powder on the floor probably will be by the water and may leave ugly and hard to remove all the stripes on the surface. For the first week or so, just vacuum and dust mop (NOT treated dust mop!) Soil, as often as you can. They will know that it is ready to be washed, when your hands are clean (no whitish powder) after rubbing on the floor.
Do not use water: It will not cut through soil and stripes. We recommend using a solution of water and “MB-1″, marble, granite floor cleaner, and more, the share back in the bottle label. Do not use more than that. While no damage would occur, would be a visible film on the floor, the surface will be a wash, so that time and what’s more, a very important part of the product. DO NOT rinse. The wording of MB-1 contains specially selected inorganic salts, which are on the surface of the stone and as moisturizers and optical brighteners. When used in proper proportion and with the right resources, MB-1 is your floor completely streak-free and it will actually increase the brightness of the soil! Should you decide not to MB-1?
Like any soap, soap stone remains a difficult to remove the deposit on the surface of the stone. Stone soaps are very limited and mainly quite different than the cleaning of a highly polished stone floor, no matter what the label says on the bottle (the seller has nothing to do with the right care stone!). Even so-called “rinse-free” stone soaps are a marketing fraud. In fact, by reading the back label on the bottle, you will learn that every so often (if you do not log in to your streaky and smeary floor no more, that is!) They should be a serious stripper / degreaser (from the same company, of course!), all the “valuable” scum, the accumulation on the floor by beautiful otherwise not rinse it after damp-mopping it.
NON-MOP mist soil with a solution of water with a commercial cleaner, unless the label specifically pointed out that their use is safe on natural marble (cultured pearls Marble Marble is not: it is man-made plastics).Worse still, NON-MOP moist soil with a solution of water and vinegar. That would be disastrous is literally at the finish line of marble, travertine, limestone, etc.! Vinegar is not a real detergent at the beginning, and it is very acidic (acetic acid). Use vinegar in your salad bowl, or for other purposes was for cooking.
If your soil is in a foyer or other room with direct access to the outside,
Use proper mats. The leather or rubber shoes are not damage your floor: dirt. Do not look for “fairly” mats, for the good! “Astroturf” mats from Monsanto Co., (heavy on the doorstep and finer inside) are among the best in my professional opinion. They come in colors too! A good janitorial supply company and they should cut them for you own. Look in the Yellow Pages and call around. Most janitorial supply companies and retailers like to do so! Clean your carpets often. If they are saturated with dirt and sand, they will no longer work.
Many customers ask me what they should do to end the factory (or the goal of a newly restored floor). No matter how elaborate the answer might be, in the end only spells: WORK. No work = no luster. There is no exception to this basic equation! If one is willing to work in order to protect the “Showroom” Finish “of his car with regular waxing, the same principle should apply to a polished stone floor (actually even more. After all, you do not walk to your car!). “MB-7″ marble, granite and more Polish keeper is an excellent artist. Do not expect miracles, but let me begin the product should be so soon after the installation or restoration as possible.
It is the conservation of the stone surface polish not to do! If you think that the application when the ground begins to show damage (wear patterns), MB-7 is an excellent offer to receive … the damage! What’s more, by the same principle that a good quality car wax is not the original “Showroom” Finish “from your car forever, it will Mb-7 with the polished stone floor. Absolute protection is not possible, but if they regularly as directed, Mb-7 will make your soil age gracefully and it will never be a real eyesore. MB-7 must be either a professional or a small residential floor buffer (at Sears and other appliance stores).
Kitchen TOPS
I would assume that your kitchen-top is made from either granite or green marble. While spray cleaner from the shelves of the local supermarket could themselves too hard - so damaging - for the fragile make-up on the basis of lime-stones such as marble, travertine, limestone, etc., in theory, it could be safely used to clean ” granite and green marble (at least most of them). All genuine granite and many other “Granite” (Stein, that are traded, such as granite, granite but are not) and all green marble need to be sealed with a good quality impregnator-type intrusion Sealer (MB-4 is an excellent and impregnator, best of my knowledge, the only one with a 20-year warranty), and seals - though invisible - must be dealt with from a maintenance perspective. In other words, the generic spray cleaner not (perhaps) in damage to the stone itself, it could prove harmful to the impregnator seal, which eventually lead to your coloring of unprotected counter top. So as not to chance
Clean your kitchen regularly top with “MB-5″ marble, granite and more spray cleaner, full strength, especially in areas close to the cooking and eating.
Do not let any spill sit too long on the surface of your counter top. Clean up spills (preferably by blotting) as quickly as you can.
Washbasins
Thursday clean it regularly with “MB-5″ marble, granite and more Spray Cleaner. In view of the typical light cleaning is necessary on a vanity top, MB-5 can be diluted in a ratio of 2: 1 with water (2 water and 1 MB-5) and still properly (You can use an extra spray bottle in each DIY). So far as the mirror over the vanity top concerns, not the chances of a regular glass cleaner: about possible spill-spray could be on the marble surface and can be damaged. Therefore, clean your mirrors with the same solution of water and MB-5. Even if you spray it is nothing bad about your marbles.
Do not use detergents powder, or - even worse - the cream cleansers, such as Soft Scrub.
Do not do your nails on the marble vanity top, or your Perm nearby.
Do not wet bottle on it (perfume, after-shave, etc.). Keep your cosmetics and fragrances in these beautiful mirror trays, and make sure that the legs of the tray has felt tips. Shower
Tile showers - whether ceramic or natural stone - a very sensitive and challenging environment, because of the serious nature of its use.
It is quite a difference in use between the walls of the bathroom outside the stall, and the same on the inside walls! For this reason, the first real and important concern is that the installation is properly carried out, because a bad installation will inevitably lead to an expensive mistake. Besides all the plumbing (which also includes the shower pan) and the film with the right material (no green boards are!), It is important that a provision of 1 / 16 “gap (the thickness of a round toothpick) between the tiles is the issue of the proper Grouting. While in the walls outside the shower installation “butt connected” (i.e. no gap between the tiles) is acceptable and, I admit it is nice to have the same type of Installation in the stable is an almost sure that the installation failed. In fact, the only grout the bridge phase, where the tiles meet, but not “root”.
As a result, the hot water take the day for grout lines day, and the heavy cleaning of the rule requires that in a shower that “ornamental” grout initially soft, then come. The consequence is that the water is finding its way between the tiles and by gravity, under the tiles of the shower Floor create all sorts of problems that will eventually for a total renovation of the shower.
Assuming that your shower has been installed correctly (please, every so often your grout lines and dense, and address each problem immediately!)
Do not use cleaners that are either in a powdery or creamy form.
Do not use a generic soap film remover, such as “TILEX SOAP SCUM” or “X-14 SOAP SCUM”, or as indicated on the polished stone shower.
Do not use generic mildew stain remover, such as “STAIN REMOVER TILEX mildew” or “X-14 mildew STAIN REMOVER” or as the polished stone shower.
Do not use any magic self-cleaner, such as “SCRUB-free” and the like or harsh disinfectants, such as “Lysol”.
Clean your shower daily. The easiest way is to use a windshield-cleaning tools (with a net wash on the one side and a squeegee blade on the other side). After each has a shower, spray the walls and floor of the stall with a diluted solution of water and MB-5, scrub quickly, then squeegee. If you will notice an accumulation of soap film (especially in the lower part of the walls and on the floor), and looks like wax, use “MB-3″ Soap Film Remover. To clean it out, MB-3 has been specially formulated to be effective on the work of cleaning soap foam and hard minerals that do not interact with the chemistry of natural stone.
Decor your home with stone sculptures of granites and marbles. Visit our website for more information www.stoneworthindia.com
Article Source: Marble and granite Daily Maintenance is easy
Jan
6
Basics of Bathroom Design
Posted In: Home Improvement
To a plumber, the difference between one bathroom and another is a matter of degrees; some baths are bigger, some have more fixtures, but in the end, everything flows downhill. Get the fresh water in, get the wastewater out – mission accomplished.
But planning a bathroom is much more than just connecting the pipes. There are many possible configurations and types of baths and a large number of finishes and fixtures to select. And it’s one of the most expensive rooms in the house.
We all know what a bathroom is used for – that hasn’t changed – but baths today are designed for specific users. In today’s homes the “masters” of the house usually have a private luxury bath, and their children often have baths of their own. Another bath may be set aside for guest use, and if the home has a lower-level recreation room, there will probably be a conveniently located bath to go with it too.
The Muck Stops Here
You probably didn’t’ grow up in a house with a utility bath but your mom wishes you did - it’s the bath that comes between the muddy kids and mom’s nice, clean floors and gives dad a place to wash his golf clubs (other than in the kitchen sink). Ideally, the utility bath is part of a family entry/mud room area, probably between the garage and the kitchen. It’s also often combined with the laundry room – the basin can do double duty as a washtub. A toilet and a basin are the only necessary fixtures; add a small shower if you’re a frequent gardener or if your kids often find their way to the creek in the backyard.
Two Kids, One Pail Of Water
Upstairs baths come in a wide variety of configurations. The basic “hall bath” has a sink, toilet, and tub and is accessed by two or more bedrooms through a common hallway. A hall bath can be as small as 5 feet wide by 8 feet long.
But because the hall bath has all of the fixtures in one room, only one person can use it at a time. A better solution is the compartmentalized bath – a slightly larger version of the hall bath that places one or two basins in a separate room from the toilet and tub. Now one teenager can use the tub or toilet in privacy while another uses the basin. It’s a far more family-friendly arrangement and doesn’t take up much more space.
Separate baths for each bedroom are the ultimate in convenience and privacy, but nearly as good is the “Jack-and-Jill” bath. Young Jack and young Jill share a common tub and toilet, but each has a private basin, countertop, storage drawers, and mirror. Usually that basin is accessible directly from the bedroom and provides a private dressing and grooming area for each child. It’s a great way to keep teenagers from fighting over the basin and countertop space without the expense of two separate baths.
Domain of the Master
The big whirlpool bathtub was the centerpiece of the luxury “master bath” just a few years ago, but in many designs its’ prominent place is challenged by the luxury shower. In fact, we’ve recently been asked to design several new homes with a big shower but no tub at all in the master bath. It’s a bit unusual, but why install a tub you’ll never use?
The large showers we’re designing in homes today are hard to beat for relaxation. Most have multiple showerheads and body-spray fixtures; all have large built-in bench seats. A few have steam units and built-in media centers.
The greatest luxuries in these baths are privacy and personal space, so every luxury bath has a separate basin and countertop space for each of the owners. They’re occasionally side-by-side but often they’re completely separated from each other. Every luxury bath must also have a private toilet room – an absolutely essential feature if more than one person is to use the bath simultaneously.
American Standards
It wasn’t long ago that the average American home had no more than two baths – one upstairs and one down – but as the size of homes has grown, so has the number and complexity of baths. It’s not uncommon today to find four or five baths in a home, each one dedicated to a specific occupant or specific use. Careful consideration of who’s using which bath will help to make your home more convenient and comfortable for everyone in it. Even the plumber.
Richard L. Taylor, AIA is a published author and recognized expert in Residential Architecture. He is President of Richard Taylor Architects, a 5-person firm in Historic Dublin, Ohio that specializes in custom and luxury home design, and remodeling and room addition projects of all sizes. | Residential Architects | Luxury Home House Plans
Article Source: Basics of Bathroom Design
Jan
6
Its time to Stop wasting money on your home energy bills , with all the other bills you have to pay each month , We can not afford to go on wasting owr hard earned money . It does not matter how much you make each month , What counts is how much is left at the end of the month ! I am sure you would not mind
having some extra money left at the end of the month . You can start saving right now in your own home starting with your utility bills.Everything in your home that runs on electricity or gas helps drive your utility bill higher and higher each month. All these things add to your burden as a homeowner .You can learn how to lower home energy bills !
. How well-insulated is your home ?
Make sure your house is totally Insulated . This one step could save you big each year. If you live on the southern part of the country, with a good Insulated home you can keep your home warm using less energy .
To do this, keep your windows and door frames tightly sealed . You can use sealant to make these places air tight. This will insure the air outside does not mix with the air inside. HeatING up or coolING down your home When properly sealed Will keep your heater or air conditioning system Working its best. You don’t want the warm or cold air to go in and out of your home. This will use more energy and drive your utility bill higher .
Keep your vents and air grills clean ,this will keep the flow of heat in your home moving . Keep all vents uncovered and out in the open , not under the couch or bed , this will let the air circulate properly .On windows and doors, you can use weatherstripping. Weatherstrips are rubber strips that seal the windows or doors . This will go on garage doors, exterior doors, windows, and door of attic.
· Then, proceed to your water heater…
Do you realize that you are heating water to a certain temperature for your shower or your washing machine only to bring that temperature down by mixing it with cold water so that it is usable? Most people can not use straight hot water and that’s where some savings can come in. Lower the hot water temperature to the lowest comfortable setting for your needs.
· The thermostat…
You should lower your thermostat when you are not home and while you are asleep. A centigrade lower equals to 2% saved energy. Again, you may want to turn the heating down if you are not around.
· Then the laundry and dish washing…
You should know this: You can save as much as 85 to 90% when you turn the dial of your laundry to cold. Heating the water will consume a lot of energy. Also, you can save a lot when you wash a full load of clothes. One last thing: In a front loading washing machine saves you 50% on water and 50% on energy.
Your dishwashers uses the same energy if it is full or empty . So load your dishwasher full.This is one of the most simple steps we can use to lower home energy bills .
· Your Piping
One very easy energy saving solution for you to consider is to insulate your home’s piping. Piping carries hot water to and from all the different faucets in your home. The path that it takes is very important to insure that while the hot water is traveling through the pipes it stays as hot as possible. If it does not, you will end up raising the temperature on your hot water heater. But all you need to do is to insulate the pipes to make sure the water temperature does not drop while traveling form the hot water heater to the spot in your home where you will use it.
· Ceiling Fans
Another part of your home that you can save some money on is the ceiling fan. Most homes have a ceiling fan in all most every room . If you do not you do not have ceiling fans in your home you should at least put then in the living and sleeping areas of your home .You can save a lot of money with ceiling fans if they are used right. In the summer, use your ceiling fan in a counterclockwise direction. This will keep the air moving. Moving air feels cooler so you will not need to use your air conditioning as much. This will help to keep the air moving and keep the thermostat set higher. The air conditioning units in homes will use a great deal more energy then that of a ceiling fan.
But, in the winter, you should use them as well. In this case, have them spin at their lowest setting and in reverse (clockwise) so as to push the hot air that rises from the ceiling down onto the working area of your home. At the lowest setting, it will not cause a breeze in your home but it will keep the furnace from having to be set too low during the winter months.
You may be thinking that covering your pipes and keeping your hot water tank insulated are going to cost you some money. You may end up spending a few dollars but the savings will add up to a lot more than you will spend .The benefits of doing these things are lower utility bills which will mean more money in you bank account . There is not doubt that you can keep your energy costs down by investing a little money in these projects. We can all Learn how to lower home energy bills .
James Rawlins is a person set on finding energy saving methods and passing them on to the public , For more information on this subject Visit - Home Made Energy Today !
Article Source: Learn how to lower home energy bills with five simple Tips
Jan
6
Home Solar Panel - Easy DIY Installation That Saves You $1000s Every Year
Posted In: Home Improvement
As you’re looking for more efficient ways to power your house, consider building your own home solar panel. This article will tell you why.
The Benefits Of Solar Energy
Renewable energy is one of the hottest topics around the world, given today’s global energy crisis, and the use of solar energy has been in the forefront. Installing a home solar panel is a great way to save energy and reduce your cost of living.
You might be surprised to find out just what a home solar panel can do for you. Let’s examine some of these.
1. Drastically Reduce Your Energy Bills With A Home Solar Panel
A home solar panel can drastically cut your monthly energy bills. And in an economic recession like we’re in, even a few pennies saved are very important. Imagine if you could watch your TV, surf the internet, and drink a glass of cold beer from your refrigerator without paying your power company – all because you have your own home solar panel installed! You can use solar energy in the time of year (and the time of day) when energy use is at its highest - and watch the savings add up!
2. Protect The Environment Using A Home Solar Panel
Until now, most people have been using oil as their primary energy source. This, of course, is not friendly to the environment. A home solar panel, on the other hand, is very eco-friendly. It uses the sun itself for “fuel”, and since the sun is never in short supply, and does not give off any harmful emissions, it is in reality the ideal energy source.
Why Install It yourself?
So you’ve decided to get a home solar panel - but now you face another question: Do you install it yourself or hire a professional? While a professional installation is always a possibility, you can save even more money if you take the time to build and install a home solar panel yourself.
Remember these important points:
1. A Professional Home Solar Panel Installation Is Expensive
Why pay $3000 when you can build your own home solar panel for only $200? Engaging a professional technician really can be that expensive. It can increase your monthly expenditure, since home solar panel installers are typically paid as much as three grand! On the other hand, you pay only a couple hundred dollars instead of thousands if you invest a little bit of time to learn how to install the home solar panel yourself.
2. It Is Easy To Do It Yourself
Installing a home solar panel is not as difficult as many people thought. All you need to do is browse through the internet to search for help. There are numerous inexpensive but very high quality guides available online. Then, head down to your local hardware store to buy the necessary materials.
While there, ask the store staff if anyone there has experience installing a home solar panel. If so, they might be willing to share some tips for free. Once you have the materials at your home, by following the guide or manual, you’ll find that the process will take only a few hours to complete.
Give it a shot. And watch how easy it is to help your bank account and the environment simply by building and installing your own home solar panel.
Why pay your power company hundreds of dollars each month… when you can easily build your own Home Solar Panels and generate the same electricity for FREE?
At http://homesolarpanelsystem.weebly.com , Dave Keller reveals all the secrets that most people will never know about harnessing FREE energy with Home Solar Panel…
Article Source: Home Solar Panel - Easy DIY Installation That Saves You $1000s Every Year
Jan
6
Fast Foundation Repair
Posted In: Home Improvement
Foundation repairs are an expensive and difficult task to perform, and almost always need professional help for doing it properly. It is important to build a good and sturdy foundation while constructing a new home as it will help you to avoid foundation related issues later on. Efficient home contractors or separate foundation contractors should be employed to avoid any foundation problems that may arise later on.
While foundations differ from region to region, the basic functionaries of a foundation repair company is almost the same. Timely ‘nursing’ of foundation cracks and allied waterproofing issues would result in a better dry basement and crawl space walls that are clean of mold.
Foundations are built differently in different regions, depending upon the frost line and the humidity of the area, as well as the budget of the homeowner. Therefore, the foundation repair costs also differ. Slab foundation repairs are lesser than the costs of crawl space and basement foundation repairs.
Sometimes waterproofing systems are put in place for maintaining dry basements. These include French drains, crawl space vent fans, piering, etc. which have to be re-hauled and restructured during a foundation repair service schedule. Foundation problems such as cracked walls, bowed walls and cracked foundation bases are quite expensive to repair. But, however expensive it might seem, foundation repairs cannot be ignored or it might lead to a catastrophe or unhygienic in the home, at the very least!
Concrete foundation repairs have gained an edge over traditional forms of foundation repair techniques. These usually include reinforced piering with poured concrete and steel rods and shims. Concrete foundation costs more than the usual foundation construction methods, but it is profitable in the long run. Moreover, concrete basements have also become more popularly used foundation reinforcement these days.
Piering or anchors are also used in regions where the soil contains excessive humidity or water concentration. The helical piers lift the crawl space and basement flooring off the humid soil, disallowing black mold and similar growth because of water seepage and damp basement conditions. Waterproofing foundations is a major responsibility of the home contractors, and if not given due attention, it may pose serious problems as the constructed property ages.
Another problem with foundations in regions with soft or humid soil is the unevenness of basement flooring and resultant cracked walls in the crawl space. Sinking foundations can also cause major damage to the whole property. And with unattended foundation problems, tragedy may strike any moment for the homeowner.
It is vital to choose your foundation contractor with precision and after thorough research. The employed individual or the foundation repair company should be able to analyze and report the problems plaguing the basement foundations and be able to provide an approximate cost of the foundation repair service. Damaged foundations not only are a threat to safety, they significantly reduce the resale value and overall look of the residential property concerned.
Jonathon Lester is the Webmaster of Danny’s Pro’s, the highly successful crawl space waterproofing and basement-repair company established in Michigan (USA). With his extensive experience in the basement repair industry, he has been enhancing his team’s technical knowledge and expertise to help serve the residents of Michigan with better basement waterproofing system.
Article Source: Fast Foundation Repair
Jan
6
Foundation Repair In Kansas
Posted In: Home Improvement
Basements and foundations are the mainstays of a house, irrespective of size or finesse of the property. Foundation problems, however, are much more difficult to tackle and repair than similar crawl space issues. Foundation contractors, hence, charge a lot to make even trivial changes in the basement setup or to revamp the whole of the foundation. Therefore, it is advisable to tend to your foundation structure while constructing a house. Residential foundation repair services are even more complex, and foundation repair costs may lead to a very uncomfortable situation in future.
Homeowners in Kansas particularly face this problem because of the excessive humid and wet soil in the region. This type of soil almost always results in water leaks and damp basements, the most influential factor in damaging foundations. Foundation repair products and treatment systems are available with most major foundation repair companies, and it is mandatory that professional help be hired for foundation repair services.
Foundations can be made sturdier and reinforced in a number of ways, of which concrete foundation installations are the most trusted and popular method. Costs of concrete foundations are higher than other contemporary methods, but its longevity and effectiveness is worth the expense.
Helical piers are a great way to lift the foundation of a building off the reach of the humid soil, keeping it safe from flood problems. These piers are often reinforced with poured concrete and steel rods. “Tanking” the basement walls with a membrane or similar substance, to act as a water sealant, is a well-known method of foundation waterproofing.
Installing anchors also helps in avoiding the foundation to sink into the ground, a potentially dangerous situation. Sinking foundations not only harm the surrounding walls and produce cracked wall fissures in the interiors of the crawl space, but also make the property a liability during floods.
The foundation drainage cracks and foundation vents may be repaired with the help of home foundation remodeling plans. This is because most of the drains, especially the French drains cannot be ‘repaired’, in case of a sinking foundation or bowed walls. Even though rebuilding or basement remodeling is expensive, Kansas homeowners should be well aware that the investments they make on the foundation repairs would come back as high returns. And if they do not take these precautionary steps, the property may become damaged and lose its value.
Foundation repairs are not only necessary for maintaining a dry, healthy basement but also to enhance the resale value of the house. Many investors do not bother to buy a house that has cracked walls in the foundation or have a damaged base, even if it’s a concrete foundation. Therefore, the better a foundation a home has, the better are your chances – both as a resident as well as a property reseller!
Jonathon Lester, Webmaster of the Kansas-based basement repair and waterproofing company Kansas Basement and Foundation Repair, is a proven expert in this field. His expertise and technical know-how has permeated into the company, making it one of the most admired crawl space repair companies not only in Kansas, but throughout USA.
Article Source: Foundation Repair In Kansas
Jan
6
Best Roof Coating – Liquid Roof
Posted In: Home Improvement
Liquid-applied roof coatings have proven themselves as useful tools for the roofing professional to restore and protect existing roofs. They can be extremely durable and used as the first-line of defence in the roofing envelope, offering further protection to other components below. Liquid roof coatings are after market products designed to extend life, seal leaks, provide a heat reflective or aesthetic function over existing roof surfaces. There are many products on the market ranging from asphalt based products, rubber solution (Hypalon, Neoprene, Silicone), water based Acrylic and other emulsions, and chemically curing systems such as Urethanes and now Liquid Roof. Liquid Roof forms a 100% chemically-cured seamless White membrane every bit as solid and attractive as factory-installed sheet rubber. Liquid Roof’s simple one-coat application by brush or roller saves you time and money, sealing and protecting your RV from water damage.
As far as application of liquid roof is concerned, it offers compatibility to a large number of surfaces such as metal, concrete, fibreglass, fabric, foam, rubber. It may be applied on roof decks, metal roofs, gutters, structural steel, air conditioner enclosures, cooling towers, galvanized steel, unit heater flues, smoke stacks and chimneys, fibreglass, non porous masonry surfaces, pool liners, underground room waterproofing, and channels. It is also excellent for wood, canvas, cement, or metal roof repair over large surface areas. One most important advantage of using liquid roof is that it does not require a top coat, primer or additional applications like many other roofing products.
Liquid roof ideally can be used for many types of roof repair. One of the most important Liquid Roof Repair applications is RV Roof Repair. Liquid roof sticks to the entire types of facades- canvas, plywood, suds, cement, mass rubber, customized roofing, additional roof coverings, strengthen, timber, top tiles, genuine tiles, solid, and many more. It is the most cost effective and efficient product for solving RV Roof Leaks Repair problem as it does not chalk, shrink, crack, peak and flake.
There are some tips which must be kept in mind before applying liquid rubber on your roof. Be aware that it is a 3 to 6 hrs process, excluding the surface preparation time. Once the liquid EPDM Rubber is applied, it takes around 16 to 20 hours to dry up. Therefore proper management of time is necessary. Careful planning regarding weather conditions should be done as well, i.e. one should plan to work on days when the rain is not expected because although Liquid Roof will immediately waterproof, even when wet, avoid heavy rain until it is completely dry to the touch which means 16 - 20 hours after application. To be on the safe side, one can say that a full cure will be achieved in 4 - 10 days after application, in consistent 70 deg F.
The Common advantages that Liquid roof coatings offer are countless. It is waterproof, has high compatibility with almost all types of surfaces, very flexible and elastic and can withstand a large temperature range from -62 degrees F to 300 degrees F without cracking. All I can say about liquid roof is that It’s the best and roof is the most important aspect of a house and liquid roof is the one which can take care for it properly.
Liquid Roof Coatings
Liquid Roof
Article Source: Best Roof Coating – Liquid Roof
Jan
6
Today there are so many carpet choices available that it’s hard to get a clear grasp on what’s what. Multiple styles, materials, stain resistances, and warranties make shopping for carpet a major pain. Throw in the fact that different carpet salesmen tend to say different things and you’ve got a migraine headache in the making.
First realize that there are only a few main categories of carpet to choose from. The first is berber carpet which is simply any carpet with loops. A cut-loop carpet is a combination of berber and cut pile which brings us to the next carpet style; cut pile. A traditional cut pile has dense, straight fibers. A textured cut pile is simply a cut pile carpet with alternating thread lengths. A plush carpet is a cut pile with thin tightly twisted threads and a finely sheered finish. A frieze is a cut pile carpet that has been twisted and then crimped somewhere along the fibers length. A shag carpet is essentially an out of control frieze with very long threads. Shags are a pain in the rear end to clean and often times require a carpet rake.
Traditionally, berber carpets stand up well to wear and tear. The most common carpet types you’ll find in homes nowadays are cut piles and berbers. Patterned carpets are becoming increasingly popular and are normally made out of cut loop carpet. The raised and lowered combinations of loops and straight threads are used to create intricate patterns.
If you want to play it safe, we suggest selecting a traditional textured cut pile or berber carpet. Avoid wild colors and patterns as it may make selling your home more difficult down the road. Traditionally, indicators of quality in a carpet are pile height, tightness of twists, and density. If your fingers can easily breach the carpet and touch the backing, you may want to move on to a different carpet sample.
As far as stain resistance and material you’ll need to research your options. Keep in mind that nylon carpet tends to be more stain resistant while wool is less so but more durable overall. Consult your salesman regarding which carpet is best for you. Be sure to inform him of the age of your children and any pets that you may have. For instance, a delicate white plush may not be your best choice if you have eleven cats and five children.
When evaluating stain resistance decide how long you’ll need to live with your new carpet. Spray on Scotch Guard treatments tend to come off when your carpet is steam cleaned while carpet made from Stainmaster retains its built in stain resistance for life. A new product, Smartstrand Sorona looks very promising and may be a good item to research. According to the Mohawk website, carpet made from Smartstrand Fibers is resistant to bleach and extremely durable.
Whichever carpet you choose, be sure to do your research ahead of time. Shop around and ask for several different bids before making your choice. Don’t fall in love with the first carpet sample you find at the first store you shop at. Carpet is something that you’ll be stuck with for a long while. It’s not a decision that you want to make hastily.
For clean carpet tips please visit our website.
Greg is a carpet cleaning guru at how-to-clean-carpet.com
Article Source: What To Look For When Shopping For New Carpet
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